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Seems more like a power or game board issue since the problem occurs with both light guns at the same time. Try checking the voltage when the light guns start going “wonky” to see if it’s still within range. Check the connections on the I/O board to make sure it’s connected properly to the light guns and the main board. If you continue to have issues after trying these suggestions, you might try contacting Ken at irepairsega.com as he as a lot of experience with Sega games in general. We will also be covering your question on our Live Show Episode 88. Here's a link to the episode if you want to watch it: ruclips.net/video/kPaSejWRwso/видео.html

It's a DDR Extreme. It's complete, but it was freezing up (sometimes during boot, sometimes during gameplay) when we put it in storage. Please email us at questions@arcaderepairtips.com if you are interested. Thanks!

@@arcaderepairtips i will do that. I have already re-built a ddr 573 and ddr super nova so I am sure I could fix this. I am also a tech at a local arcade so I will talk to my boss about this as well.

I sent an email. Hopefully I typed everything in correctly

While it's possible that pin 27 being grounded on the harness connected to your 412-in-1 board could be causing your issue, we would recommend checking some other areas before you cut the wire. Check the power supply to make sure the correct voltage is getting to your game board. Check the rest of the wires on your JAMMA harness (especially the video output wires) to make sure they match the pinouts in the 412-in-1 manual. If you do decide to cut pin 27, be sure to leave enough room so that you can reconnect it in the event you need to do so. Hope that helps. We will also be covering your question on our Live Show Episode 88. Here's a link to the episode if you want to watch it: ruclips.net/video/kPaSejWRwso/видео.html

Yes, a broken power supply fan is not a good thing, but that should not be causing the coin up issue. Trace your coin and ground wires back to the harness. Make sure they are making a good connection. Remember, you should be able to touch either of your coin wires to a ground and the game should coin up. If it doesn't, then you probably have a wiring issue of some sort. Hope that helps. We will also be covering your question on our Live Show Episode 88. Here's a link to the episode if you want to watch it: ruclips.net/video/kPaSejWRwso/видео.html

@@arcaderepairtips hey turns out I had the coin door cherry switch wired up incorrectly. I fixed it. All that’s left is repair the monitor. The picture edges are a little wavy and moving during game play. I assume that’s a bad cap or flyback issue in the K7000 25 inch monitor. Thank u for helping

@@jumpingeneral Awesome, glad it was just a wiring issue. On the monitor problem, check your hold/sync adjustments. Check your sync and ground input wires/connections as well. Improper grounding can cause this issue. Check all of your grounds and the DAG wire. Hope that helps.

@@arcaderepairtips thank you for helping. I noticed a crack in the flyback. That would explain the waviness on the sides of the screen I guess

@@jumpingeneral Yep, a crack in the flyback can cause this as well. Fortunately, new K7000 flybacks can be purchased from most arcade parts distributors.

Hey there @OneLovePsych! Thanks for your kind words about our content. We're glad to hear it helped you out. We would love to go back to doing the topic-style videos that we did in the past. Unfortunately, our schedules no longer allow for this. Hopefully this will change at some point in the future. Until then, please consider checking out our Live Show episodes that take place on the first Thursday night of the month at 5:30 PM CT. Thanks again and good luck with your future repairs.

Try adjusting VR450 on the main chassis. This should help with the hourglass effect. If it doesn't, the problem could be electrolytic. The horizontal lines at the top are usually a good indication that it's time to install a cap kit. Hope that helps.

@@arcaderepairtips I actually had the chassis recapped pretty recently. The hourglass effect does go away after the monitor is on for 5-10 minutes. It started happening after the cabs were moved recently. I can look into the VR450.

Unfortunately, we are not taking any monitor repairs at this time, but we do have several people we recommend. Our friend Paul at paulsmonitors.com has been doing repairs for over a decade and has a lot of experience with most of the common monitor models. He has answered several questions on our Facebook page in the past and definitely knows what he's doing. Chad at arcadecup.com is also a very reputable guy and has a pretty fast turnaround time. There is a list of additional monitor repair technicians on our resources page (www.arcaderepairtips.com/resources) under the Monitor Repair Services & Information heading as well. Hope that helps.

Thank you for the recommendation’s. I will contact them once I get my settlement for the repair. I would rather pay a couple hundred to repair mine then try and find another monitor that would probably cost me a good amount more.

Sure. You can send any information/pictures you have of your issue to us via email at questions@arcaderepairtips.com

Sure. You can send any information/pictures you have of your issue to us via email at questions@arcaderepairtips.com

Yes, the on/off switch is included in this kit. Thanks for watching!

@arcaderepairtips I either threw mine away by mistake when I got rid of the box or mine didn't come with one. Do you have any recommendations on what type of on-off switch I should use?

@@Notlisted4uTry contacting the Holland Computers support team and see if they will replace it for you. Here is a link to the switch based on the part number inventory for the kit: www.hollandcomputers.com/store/pc/Power-EMI-Filter-with-Built-In-Power-Switch-with-fuse-by-RetroArcade-us-2512p5988.htm?idaffiliate=38

@@arcaderepairtips thanks I'll do just that

@@arcaderepairtips thank you for the information about the on off switch. i ran into another problem though, while trying to extend the ground wire to reach across the cabinet for player 2. I, while the cabinet was unplugged and off, cut the daisy chained black ground wire shorter so it would reach player 1 and planned to use the extra wire to splice the ground in the middle together to get the leads to reach player 2 across the cabinet. however i found that when i plugged the cabinet back in my 60 in 1 was now blinking red and orange instead of green and i no longer had a picture. when i spliced it back in its original place the board still blinked red and orange. did i fry my board? did i ruin the jamma harness? any thoughts on this would help my frustration thank you very much.

Yes, you should be able to get a replacement joystick for your Midway 12-in-1 cabinet. If it’s a commercial arcade, try an arcade parts distributor such as Suzo/Happ, Arcadeshop, etc. If it’s a home arcade, try eBay or Amazon. Most Arcade1Up cabinets use Zippy-style joysticks. Depending on your game, you may need to solder/splicing some wiring in order to install it. Please send some pics of your cabinet to questions@arcaderepairtips.com if you need additional help. We will also be covering your question on our Live Show Episode 85. Here's a link to the episode if you want to watch it: ruclips.net/video/svX2pmM2wE4/видео.html

You can order replacement microswitches from most arcade parts suppliers or even Amazon/eBay. No reason to “sacrifice” one from a button. PLEASE don’t use tinfoil for connections! Get some crimp terminals/end connectors and put those on the wires instead. These are designed to easily connect to the prongs on the microswitches. No soldering required! We will also be covering your question on our Live Show Episode 85. Here's a link to the episode if you want to watch it: ruclips.net/video/svX2pmM2wE4/видео.html

The monitors on some arcade cabinets are intentionally angled in order to help the player see the screen better and give the game more of an environmental feel. Is it leaning back more than usual? If so, the monitor could have come loose from its cabinet mounting. Check the mounting "rails", frame, and bolts to see if they are secured properly. Hope that helps. We will also be covering your question on our Live Show Episode 84. Here's a link to the episode if you want to watch it: ruclips.net/video/b9dDq6jXEtA/видео.html

Sounds like you may have some power and board issues. Before suspecting the board, make sure that the power supply is sending the correct voltage to the game board and the screen. You may need to replace the power supply if the voltage is incorrect. If the power supply is working properly but you continue to experience this issue, then you probably have a game board problem. Check all of the connections to the board and check out our post on Inspecting An Arcade Board for some tips that might help you get your game going. Hope that helps. We will also be covering your question on our Live Show Episode 83. Here's a link to the episode if you want to watch it: ruclips.net/video/u_NdPBKJAFM/видео.html

Tabletop/cocktail games typically flip the screen when it’s the second player’s turn. If you want to turn this off, you can set DIP switch 4 on bank A to the OFF position. There is also a DIP switch for screen orientation that may need to be changed as well. You can find more DIP switch settings for Tiger Heli in the manual for the game: www.aurcade.com/games/manuals/00001687.pdf We will also be covering your question on our Live Show Episode 82. Here's a link to the episode if you want to watch it: ruclips.net/video/_ccjOunA5UU/видео.html

You can find our JAMMA pinout chart on our website at www.arcaderepairtips.com/jamma.html We are not aware of an officially licensed Back to the Future arcade game. Some people have used this name to create/market multicade games though. This unfortunately makes it hard to know if the setup in your cabinet is JAMMA. You can send some pictures of it to us and we can probably identify it. E-mail them to questions@arcaderepairtips.com for additional help.

The 60-in-1 has a DIP switch for display mode. Make sure that this switch is set correctly on the board. For VGA output, DIP switch 2 should be in the ON position. If the VGA output still doesn't work, it could be an issue with the board itself. Hope that helps.

MAME has a place to modify hard dip switch settings built-in to the emulator itself. It is located on the “tab” menu. When you press the tab key, it should bring up a menu that has an option to modify the hard dip switches. According to the hard dip switch settings for the Neo Geo MVS hardware, the free play option is located on switch 7 which means it should be selectable in this menu. Find the Free Play option on the dip switch menu and turn it to the On position. Exit out of the tab menu and that should allow you to enjoy your Neo Geo games without having to insert coins. We also covered your question on our Live Show Episode 81. Here's a link to the episode if you want to watch it:ruclips.net/user/liveioaSHxuhEC8?si=9FeqBpAasHQ6G6Rj&t=2395

@@arcaderepairtips Thank you so much for the details! I'm using FBNeo as my emulator for NeoGeo MVS and was able to modify the hard dip from the menu. It's such a great system.

Depends on the monitor installed in your cabinet. While older CRT arcade monitors typically require an isolation transformer, most newer monitors do not. Check the manual for your monitor to see if it requires one. We also covered your question on our Live Show Episode 81. Here's a link to the episode if you want to watch it: ruclips.net/user/liveioaSHxuhEC8?si=8JkmTJrdXkA9uSfP&t=3460

Unfortunately, there’s not much you can do if the red color gun on the tube is not working. A tube rejuvenator may possibly be able to restore it. With that said, you're probably getting to the end of life on the tube. Best to replace it if you can find a compatible one. Hope that helps.

@@arcaderepairtips thanks. I was able to replace it. :)